Beastmaker Hangboards: Hold Depths, Design, and Training Implications

How Deep Are the Holds on Beastmaker Hangboards?

Beastmaker hangboards are meticulously designed with a variety of hold types, including edges, pockets, and slopers, each featuring specific depths and profiles engineered to target distinct aspects of finger strength and grip. While precise measurements vary by model and hold type, pocket depths can range from shallow (e.g., 10mm for advanced edges) to significantly deeper (e.g., 40mm+ for open-hand pockets), all intentionally crafted for progressive and specialized training.

Understanding Beastmaker Hangboard Design Philosophy

Beastmaker hangboards, particularly the popular 1000 and 2000 series, are renowned for their ergonomic design and high-quality wooden construction, which offers a skin-friendly alternative to plastic. The variation in hold depths and types is not arbitrary; it's a fundamental aspect of their effectiveness as a training tool. Each hold is strategically shaped to isolate and strengthen specific grip positions and finger configurations crucial for climbing performance. This allows for a graded progression, enabling climbers and athletes to gradually increase the intensity and specificity of their finger strength training.

Common Hold Types and Their Typical Depths on Beastmaker Boards

Beastmaker hangboards feature a range of holds, each with distinct dimensions to challenge different aspects of finger strength. While exact measurements can vary slightly between specific models and production runs, the general principles of depth remain consistent.

• Edges: These are typically found in various sizes, designed for half-crimp or full-crimp grips.
  • Beastmaker 1000 Series: Often includes comfortable large edges (e.g., 20-25mm), medium edges (e.g., 15-20mm), and smaller edges (e.g., 10-12mm).
  • Beastmaker 2000 Series: Caters to more advanced users with significantly shallower and more challenging edges, such as 8mm, 10mm, and 12mm, demanding greater finger strength and precision.
• Pockets: These holds are designed for two-finger (two-finger pockets), three-finger (three-finger pockets), or four-finger (four-finger pockets) grip, often referred to as "open-hand" or "drag" grips.
  • Beastmaker 1000 Series: Features a range of pocket depths, typically including deeper, more comfortable four-finger pockets (e.g., 30-40mm+), medium three-finger pockets (e.g., 20-25mm), and sometimes shallower two-finger pockets (e.g., 15-20mm).
  • Beastmaker 2000 Series: Introduces more challenging pockets, including mono (one-finger) pockets, and shallower two- and three-finger pockets (e.g., 15-20mm), requiring highly developed finger strength and tendon resilience.
• Slopers: These holds are characterized by their angle rather than depth. They lack a positive edge, requiring friction and open-hand strength. Beastmaker boards typically feature a range of sloper angles (e.g., 30 to 45 degrees) to train different aspects of open-hand grip.

It is crucial to understand that the perceived "depth" of a pocket or edge is inversely proportional to its difficulty. A shallower hold requires a greater absolute force to maintain grip, thereby increasing the training stimulus.

The Biomechanical Significance of Hold Depth

The depth of a hold profoundly impacts the biomechanics of finger gripping and the physiological demands placed on the musculoskeletal system.

• Finger Joint Angles and Muscle Recruitment:
  • Deeper Holds (Open Hand Grip): Allow for a more open-hand position, where the metacarpophalangeal (MCP), proximal interphalangeal (PIP), and distal interphalangeal (DIP) joints are less flexed. This grip primarily engages the flexor digitorum profundus and superficialis muscles in a more elongated state, promoting strength and endurance in a position that often carries a lower risk of pulley injury.
  • Shallower Holds (Crimp Grip): Necessitate a more acute flexion of the finger joints, particularly the PIP and DIP joints. This "crimp" position, especially a full crimp where the thumb wraps over the index finger, places significantly higher stress on the finger flexor tendons and the A2 and A4 annular pulleys. It recruits the flexor muscles in a more shortened, powerful range of motion.
• Force Distribution and Injury Risk:
  • Shallower holds concentrate the gripping force over a smaller surface area, increasing the stress per unit area on the finger tendons and ligaments. This heightened stress, particularly in crimp positions, elevates the risk of overuse injuries such as pulley strains or tears, tendinopathy, and lumbrical strains.
  • Deeper holds, by allowing for a more open-hand grip, distribute the load more broadly across the fingers and hand, generally reducing the risk of acute injury, making them ideal for warm-ups, beginners, and recovery phases.

Training Implications and Practical Application

Understanding hold depth is paramount for effective and safe hangboard training.

• Progressive Overload: Athletes typically begin their hangboard journey on deeper, more forgiving holds. As finger strength and tendon adaptation improve, they can progressively move to shallower edges and pockets, or reduce the number of fingers used (e.g., from three-finger to two-finger pockets).
• Targeted Grip Training:
  • Open-Hand Strength: Utilize deeper pockets and slopers to develop strength and endurance in an open-hand position, crucial for many climbing styles and reducing injury risk.
  • Half-Crimp Strength: Focus on medium-depth edges (e.g., 15-20mm) to build strength in the fundamental half-crimp position, which balances power with relative safety.
  • Full-Crimp Strength: For advanced climbers, training on very shallow edges (e.g., 8-12mm) is necessary to develop specific full-crimp power, but this should be approached with extreme caution due to the increased injury risk.
  • Finger Isolation: Use two-finger and mono pockets to specifically target individual finger strength and address imbalances.
• Warm-up and Cool-down: Always initiate a hangboard session with thorough warm-ups, often utilizing the deepest, most comfortable holds on the board. Similarly, a cool-down can involve light hangs on large holds.
• Periodization: Integrate varying hold depths into your training cycles. For instance, an off-season might focus on building foundational strength on deeper holds, while a pre-competition phase might include more specific, challenging hangs on shallower holds.

Beyond Depth: Other Factors in Hangboard Training

While hold depth is a critical variable, other factors significantly influence the training stimulus and should be considered:

• Added/Removed Weight: The primary method for adjusting intensity on any given hold is by adding weight (via a weight vest or belt) or removing weight (via a pulley system or foot support).
• Hold Texture and Material: Wooden hangboards like Beastmakers offer excellent friction while being kinder to the skin compared to some plastic or resin boards.
• Hold Angle (Slopers): For slopers, the angle (e.g., 30-45 degrees) dictates difficulty, requiring greater friction and open-hand strength as the angle increases.
• Repetition Scheme: Duration of hangs, rest periods, and number of sets and repetitions all contribute to the training effect (e.g., strength, power, endurance).
• Body Position: Maintaining a strict body position (e.g., engaged core, shoulders down and back) is essential to prevent injury and maximize finger recruitment.

Conclusion: Leveraging Hold Depth for Optimal Performance

The varied depths of holds on Beastmaker hangboards are a testament to their thoughtful design, offering a sophisticated tool for comprehensive finger strength development. By understanding the specific depths of edges and pockets, and their biomechanical implications, athletes can strategically manipulate their training to target specific grip types, progress safely, and ultimately enhance their climbing performance while minimizing the risk of injury. Always prioritize proper form, listen to your body, and progress gradually to ensure long-term gains in finger strength and resilience.