Climbing: Mastering Undercling Technique, Training, and Common Mistakes

How to Use Underclings in Climbing

Underclings are a specialized climbing hold type that requires pulling force directed primarily downward and inward, rather than upward, to maintain body tension and facilitate upward or horizontal movement on the rock or climbing wall.

Understanding Underclings: A Biomechanical Perspective

What is an Undercling? An undercling is a climbing hold where the gripping surface is positioned such that you pull up on it from below. Unlike a typical jug or crimp where you pull down, an undercling necessitates a unique application of force to generate stability and propulsion. The hand is typically placed with the palm facing upwards or slightly outwards, and the fingers wrap around the underside of the hold.

When are Underclings Used? Underclings are strategically employed in various climbing scenarios, particularly when other hold types are unavailable or when a specific body position is advantageous. They are often found on overhangs, roofs, or traverses, allowing climbers to maintain tension into the wall, prevent swinging out (barn-dooring), and set up for the next move. Their effective use often relies on strong opposing forces from the feet.

Muscles Engaged Effective underclinging is a full-body endeavor, demanding significant engagement from multiple muscle groups:

• Forearms and Biceps: These are the primary movers for pulling force, engaging the flexor muscles of the forearm and the biceps brachii to generate the necessary upward and inward pull.
• Latissimus Dorsi (Lats): The large back muscles are crucial for driving the body upwards and maintaining tension, working synergistically with the arms.
• Core (Rectus Abdominis, Obliques, Transverse Abdominis): A strong, engaged core is paramount for maintaining body tension, preventing the hips from sagging away from the wall, and stabilizing the spine.
• Glutes and Hamstrings: These muscles are essential for powerful leg drives and maintaining tension through the lower body, especially when pressing into footholds or flagging.
• Shoulder Stabilizers (Rotator Cuff, Deltoids): These muscles work to stabilize the shoulder joint under load, preventing injury and ensuring efficient force transfer.

Mastering Undercling Technique

Effective undercling technique hinges on precise body positioning, optimal grip, and coordinated full-body tension.

Approach and Body Position

• Proximity: Get as close to the wall as possible. The further your hips are from the wall, the more difficult it becomes to maintain tension.
• Low Center of Gravity: Often, a slightly lower body position, with bent knees and hips close to the wall, allows for better leverage and a stronger upward pull.
• Feet Placement: Crucial for success. Your feet should be placed to generate an opposing force to your hands, pushing down or out to counteract the upward pull of the undercling. This creates a "push-pull" dynamic that keeps you glued to the wall.

The Grip

• Open Hand or Crimp: Depending on the hold's size and shape, an open-hand grip is generally preferred to reduce strain on tendons, but a crimp may be necessary on smaller edges.
• Thumb Wrap: If possible, wrapping your thumb around the hold can provide additional security and leverage.
• Hand Orientation: Position your hand so your fingers can wrap around the underside of the hold, with your palm facing up or slightly out. Experiment to find the most secure and powerful position.

Activating the Pull

• Downward and Inward Force: The key is to pull the hold down and into your body, not just straight up. Imagine trying to pull the hold off the wall towards your chest. This engages your lats and biceps effectively.
• Elbow Position: Keep your elbows relatively close to your body, driving them down and back.
• Shoulder Engagement: Actively pull your shoulders down and back, engaging your lats and avoiding shrugging.

Footwork and Momentum

• Opposing Forces: Use your feet to push against the wall, creating an opposing force to your arms. If your right hand is on an undercling, your left foot might be pushing hard into a smear or small foothold to create tension.
• Flagging: Often, flagging (extending one leg out to the side or behind the other) is necessary to maintain balance and body tension, especially on overhanging terrain.
• Generating Movement: Once tension is established, use a powerful leg drive to push your body upwards while simultaneously pulling hard on the undercling. This coordinated effort creates momentum for the next move.

Core Engagement

• Maintain Tension: Keep your core tight and engaged throughout the move. This prevents your hips from swinging away from the wall (barn-dooring) and ensures efficient transfer of force from your lower body to your upper body.
• Pelvic Tilt: A slight posterior pelvic tilt can help engage your lower core and keep your hips closer to the wall.

Breathing

• Controlled Exhalation: Breathe out during the most strenuous part of the pull. Avoid holding your breath, which can increase fatigue and reduce performance.

Common Undercling Scenarios

Traversing Underclings are invaluable for horizontal movement on overhanging walls. By maintaining constant tension through the undercling, you can shift your weight and move your feet across the wall without losing stability.

Roof Climbing In roof climbing, underclings are often the only viable holds. They allow you to pull yourself "up" into the roof and move along its underside, making progress where gravity is constantly pulling you down.

Generating Upward Movement When the next hold is out of reach above an undercling, you can use the undercling to "rock over" or "throw" your body upwards. This involves a powerful pull and leg drive to create enough height and momentum to grab the next hold.

Training for Undercling Proficiency

Developing proficiency with underclings requires targeted strength and technique training.

Grip Strength

• Hangboarding: Practice dead hangs and pull-ups on various edge sizes, focusing on open-hand and half-crimp positions.
• Campus Boarding: Develop explosive finger and arm strength, though use with caution due to high impact.
• Weighted Carries: Farmer's walks and plate pinches build general grip endurance.

Pulling Strength

• Pull-ups and Weighted Pull-ups: Essential for developing the lats and biceps.
• Rows (Barbell, Dumbbell, Cable): Strengthen the back muscles involved in pulling.
• Lock-offs: Practice holding a pull-up at various angles to build static strength.

Core Stability

• Planks and Side Planks: Build foundational core strength.
• L-sits and Leg Raises: Enhance lower abdominal and hip flexor strength, crucial for body tension.
• Hanging Leg Raises/Toes-to-Bar: Improve dynamic core strength and control.

Body Tension Drills

• Dry-tooling: Practice movements on the wall without using holds, focusing solely on maintaining body tension through core and leg engagement.
• Undercling Specific Drills: Practice underclings on a set boulder problem, focusing on slow, controlled movements and perfect technique.

Antagonist Training

• Push-ups, Bench Press, Overhead Press: Balance the pulling muscles with pushing muscles to prevent imbalances and reduce injury risk, particularly in the shoulders and elbows.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Pulling Straight Up This is the most common mistake. Pulling straight up on an undercling is inefficient and often leads to your body swinging away from the wall. Remember to pull down and in.

Lack of Body Tension Sagging hips or a loose core will cause you to lose connection with the wall and make the move significantly harder, often resulting in "barn-dooring."

Poor Footwork Slipping feet or feet placed too far away from the wall negate the opposing force needed for underclings. Ensure precise and powerful foot placement.

Over-gripping Squeezing the hold too hard wastes energy and leads to rapid forearm fatigue. Focus on efficient tension rather than maximum grip.

Ignoring Leg Drive Relying solely on arm strength will quickly exhaust you. Underclings demand a strong, coordinated leg drive to push you upwards.

Safety Considerations and Injury Prevention

Warm-up and Cool-down Always perform a thorough warm-up before climbing, focusing on dynamic stretches and light cardio, especially for the shoulders, elbows, and forearms. Cool down with static stretches.

Listen to Your Body Pay attention to signs of overuse, particularly in the finger tendons, elbows (golfer's or tennis elbow), and shoulders. Rest and cross-train when needed.

Proper Progression Do not attempt underclings that are beyond your current strength and skill level. Gradually progress to harder holds and more challenging movements.

Spotting/Padding When bouldering, ensure adequate crash pads. For rope climbing, ensure your belayer is attentive and competent.

Cross-Training Engage in a balanced fitness routine that includes strength training for antagonist muscles, cardio, and flexibility to support your climbing and prevent injuries.

Conclusion: Integrating Underclings into Your Climbing Repertoire

Underclings, while initially counter-intuitive, are a fundamental and powerful technique in the climber's arsenal. By understanding the biomechanics involved, diligently practicing the correct technique, and focusing on full-body tension and coordination, you can transform these challenging holds into opportunities for dynamic and efficient movement. Integrate dedicated undercling practice into your training, be patient with your progress, and you will unlock new possibilities on the rock and in the gym, elevating your climbing proficiency to new heights.