Look KEO Pedals: Adjusting Cleat Position, Float, and Release Tension

How to Adjust Look KEO Pedals?

Adjusting Look KEO pedals primarily involves optimizing cleat position on your cycling shoes—specifically fore/aft, lateral, and rotational (float) alignment—along with fine-tuning the pedal's spring tension to ensure efficient power transfer, comfort, and safe cleat release.

Understanding Look KEO Pedal Adjustment

Proper adjustment of your Look KEO pedal system is critical for optimizing cycling performance, preventing injuries, and ensuring comfort during rides. Unlike platform pedals, clipless systems create a fixed interface between your foot and the pedal, which, while enhancing power transfer, also necessitates precise alignment to accommodate your unique biomechanics. Incorrect cleat placement or pedal tension can lead to a cascade of issues, including knee pain, hot spots, numbness, Achilles tendonitis, and even falls.

The goal of adjustment is to allow your body to move through its natural range of motion during the pedal stroke, ensuring that joints like the knee track in a straight, efficient, and pain-free path.

Key Adjustment Parameters

Adjusting Look KEO pedals involves manipulating two primary components: the cleat attached to your shoe and the spring tension within the pedal body itself.

• Cleat Fore/Aft Position: This determines where the ball of your foot (specifically the first metatarsal-phalangeal joint, or 1st MTP joint) sits relative to the pedal spindle.
  • Impact: Affects which muscle groups are primarily engaged (more forward for calves/quads, more backward for hamstrings/glutes) and influences power output and endurance.
• Cleat Lateral Position (Side-to-Side): This adjusts the horizontal distance between your foot and the crank arm, influencing your "Q-factor" (the distance between your feet on the pedals).
  • Impact: Critical for knee tracking. An incorrect lateral position can cause the knees to track inward (valgus) or outward (varus), leading to pain and potential injury.
• Cleat Angle (Float/Rotation): This refers to the rotational freedom your foot has while clipped into the pedal. Look KEO cleats come in different float options, typically identified by color:
  • Black (0° float): No rotational freedom.
  • Grey (4.5° float): Moderate rotational freedom (most common and recommended for beginners).
  • Red (9° float): Maximum rotational freedom.
  • Impact: Proper float prevents undue torsional stress on the knee and ankle joints, allowing for natural movement during the pedal stroke.
• Pedal Release Tension (Spring Tension): This setting on the pedal body dictates how much force is required to unclip your shoe from the pedal.
  • Impact: Too loose, and you risk accidental unclipping; too tight, and you may struggle to unclip quickly in an emergency, leading to falls.

Tools Required

Before you begin, gather the necessary tools:

• 4mm Allen Key: For adjusting cleat bolts.
• 3mm Allen Key: For adjusting pedal release tension (located on the back of the pedal body).
• Marker or Pen: To mark existing cleat positions.
• Ruler or Measuring Tape: For precise measurements.
• Torque Wrench (Recommended): To ensure cleat bolts are tightened to the manufacturer's specifications (typically 5-6 Nm) to prevent stripping or loosening.
• Stationary Trainer (Optional but Recommended): Allows for safe, static observation of your pedaling mechanics.
• Plumb Bob or String with a Weight (Optional): Useful for verifying cleat fore/aft position.

Step-by-Step Adjustment Guide

Approach adjustments incrementally. Small changes can have significant effects.

Initial Setup & Assessment

1. Mark Current Position: Before loosening any bolts, use a marker to trace around your existing cleats on your shoes. This provides a baseline if you need to revert.
2. Observe Your Ride: Go for a short, comfortable ride. Pay attention to any discomfort, hot spots, numbness, or unusual knee tracking (e.g., knees bowing in or out). This feedback is crucial for guiding adjustments.
3. Find Your 1st MTP Joint: On your foot, locate the bony protrusion at the base of your big toe. This is your 1st MTP joint. Mark it on your shoe if it's not already apparent.

Cleat Fore/Aft Adjustment

The general guideline is to align the center of the pedal spindle with the 1st MTP joint.

1. Loosen Cleat Bolts: Use a 4mm Allen key to slightly loosen the three cleat bolts on the sole of your shoe. Do not remove them completely.
2. Adjust Position:
   • To move the cleat forward: Slide it towards the toe of the shoe. This moves your foot back relative to the pedal spindle, recruiting more hamstrings/glutes.
   • To move the cleat backward: Slide it towards the heel of the shoe. This moves your foot forward relative to the pedal spindle, recruiting more calves/quads.
3. Align: Position the cleat so that when clipped in, the 1st MTP joint is approximately over the center of the pedal spindle. Some riders prefer slightly behind for comfort and endurance.
4. Tighten: Hand-tighten the bolts initially, then use a torque wrench to tighten to manufacturer specifications (typically 5-6 Nm).

Cleat Lateral (Side-to-Side) Adjustment

This adjustment affects your effective Q-factor.

1. Loosen Cleat Bolts: Slightly loosen the three cleat bolts.
2. Adjust Position:
   • To move your foot closer to the crank (narrower Q-factor): Slide the cleat outwards (away from the shoe's instep).
   • To move your foot further from the crank (wider Q-factor): Slide the cleat inwards (towards the shoe's instep).
3. Assess Knee Tracking: Clip into your pedals (ideally on a trainer). Observe your knees. They should track in a relatively straight line over your feet, without excessive inward or outward movement. Adjust until your knee feels comfortable and aligned.
4. Tighten: Secure the bolts.

Cleat Angle (Float) Adjustment

This is about setting the cleat so your foot's natural resting angle is within the float range of the cleat.

1. Choose Cleat Type: Most riders start with grey KEO cleats (4.5° float) as they offer a good balance of security and freedom. Black (0° float) is for experienced riders with perfect biomechanics or specific racing needs. Red (9° float) is for those needing maximum freedom or with significant biomechanical asymmetries.
2. Loosen Cleat Bolts: Slightly loosen the cleat bolts.
3. Find Natural Foot Angle: While sitting or standing, let your foot naturally hang. Notice its default toe-in or toe-out angle.
4. Adjust Cleat: Rotate the cleat on the shoe to match your foot's natural angle. The goal is for your foot to sit neutrally when clipped in, with equal float available on either side of that neutral position.
5. Tighten: Secure the bolts.

Pedal Release Tension Adjustment

This is crucial for safety and confidence.

1. Locate Adjustment Screw: On the back of each Look KEO pedal, you'll find a small Allen bolt (usually 3mm).
2. Adjust Tension:
   • Clockwise: Turn the screw clockwise to increase tension, making it harder to unclip.
   • Counter-clockwise: Turn the screw counter-clockwise to decrease tension, making it easier to unclip.
3. Test: Clip in and out multiple times to gauge the required force. It should feel secure but allow for a quick, deliberate release.
4. Match Both Pedals: Ensure both pedals are set to roughly the same tension for consistent feel and safety. Most pedals have a small indicator or number scale to help match tension.

Fine-Tuning and Troubleshooting

• Iterative Process: Bike fitting is rarely a one-time event. Make small adjustments, ride for 15-30 minutes, and then re-evaluate.
• Listen to Your Body: Pain is a signal.
  • Knee Pain (medial/inside): Often indicates a need to move the cleat slightly outward (widening your stance) or adjust float.
  • Knee Pain (lateral/outside): May need to move the cleat slightly inward (narrowing your stance) or adjust float.
  • Foot Numbness/Hot Spots: Check fore/aft position (often too far forward), cleat pressure, or shoe fit.
  • Achilles Pain: Cleat too far forward, saddle too high, or excessive toe-down pedaling.
• Symmetry: Don't assume both feet require identical cleat settings. Many individuals have slight anatomical differences.

When to Seek Professional Help

While self-adjustment can resolve many issues, certain situations warrant a professional bike fit:

• Persistent Pain: If you continue to experience pain despite your best efforts.
• Complex Biomechanics: Known issues like significant leg length discrepancies, severe pronation/supination, or joint limitations.
• Performance Optimization: For competitive cyclists seeking to maximize efficiency and power output.
• New Bike Purchase: A professional fit is highly recommended for a new bike to ensure optimal initial setup.

A professional bike fitter uses specialized tools and a deep understanding of anatomy, biomechanics, and cycling dynamics to provide a comprehensive fit tailored to your unique body and riding goals.

Conclusion

Mastering the adjustment of your Look KEO pedals is an essential step in optimizing your cycling experience. By methodically addressing cleat fore/aft position, lateral alignment, rotational float, and pedal release tension, you can significantly enhance comfort, prevent common cycling-related injuries, and improve your power transfer. Remember that proper bike fit is an ongoing process of listening to your body and making incremental adjustments to achieve a harmonious relationship between rider and machine.